Friday, March 31, 2023

Desert Riding

 

Chris: Today I rode 71 miles through the desert to Marathon, Texas.  We had been warned that there were no services for the first 55 miles so BE PREPARED.  After hours in the sun I saw water ahead.  Nope.  A mirage.  Then I got really excited because far off in the distance I saw a single cyclist heading towards me.  I had so many questions about where they came from and what I would be facing in the coming days.  Turns out it was a yucca plant.  It happened twice.  And then when David actually surprised me and biked from our campsite back to meet me I never saw him coming because I had my head down and was so irritated by the 22 mph gusts of wind coming right at me.  The wind stopped as soon as we got the tent set up.  It was a great day.  We meet the coolest people in these tiny towns in the desert.  I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. 






Thursday, March 30, 2023

A Day Off!

Chris. We scheduled a day off in the remote town of Sanderson, Texas


 

 


We had a lovely visit with Alaina Smith the director of the Terrell County Public Library which boasts the most books per capita of any other library in the state of Texas!  They have a nice collection of 60,000 volumes. 



Tomorrow it’s back on the bike.  Riding is physically challenging but is also mentally challenging.  Biking through endless miles where I am passed by semis and occasional fast moving vehicles can do strange things to the mind.  I spend time singing and sing whatever random song pops into my head.  It’s amazing what has been buried in my head.


I think about what job I want to apply for when I return home.  I think about my kids and grandkids.  A lot.  I estimate how long it will take me until I get to the tree in the far distance.  I count the numbers on my odometer and see if I’m estimating correctly the distance I’ve ridden.  I try to remember when I last applied sunscreen.  I vow to stop to hydrate at every ten mile mark.  I negotiate with myself regarding how much further I need to ride to meet a decent riding goal.  I think about my friends and wonder what they’re doing.  I think about the small town I live in and realize how much we have going on!  Holy crap! 


I try to imagine  who I would be if I had been born out here in the desert.  I wonder if the sun will come out or if the sun will go away.  I think about my siblings and about my parents.  I wonder what it will be like to wake up two days in a row and not have to get on the bike.  I wonder why I wanted to do this trip.  I wonder why it took me so long to do this trip.  I wonder why David doesn’t show up with food.  I wonder if the border patrol agent sitting in his vehicle looking into Mexico is as bored as I am.  I’m happy.  I’m sad.  I’m in pain.  My legs hurt.  My legs feel strong and powerful.  I’m full of utter and complete joy.  I hate biking.  I love biking. 
























Wednesday, March 29, 2023

Two Tales of a City

David. One of Dickens’ well known books is “A Tale of Two Cities.”  Today, we were treated to two tales about the same city. We’re taking a day off in Sanderson, Texas, which gives us time to ride more leisurely around town and talk with people.



For the sake of all involved, let’s not identify the first couple. We met them in a small convenience store they own. They gave us valuable insight into the economics of a part of the local economy that works very well. He is a guide for hunters who come into town to hunt wild animals. The animals range from local deer to Kudu, Gemsbok, Ibix, the latter three native to southern Africa. They are familiar to Chris from her time there.  They are not native to Texas.



“Tom” explained that the first specimens of each are brought here, then bred in captivity. Bred for hunting purposes. There was a picture on the wall of a Gemsbok a hunter killed three weeks ago. Tom charged him $8000 for the hunt. Some went to Tom, and some went to the ranch owner.

Tom guides hunters on a 23,000 acre ranch. The owner has $2,000,000 worth of animals. How do you get to that figure? Tom explained that a female Gemsbok sells for $50,000.  Multiply that by the many animals they make available for hunting.

After the hunt, “Marie” offers butchering and taxidermy services. We bought some delicious summer sausage.

Tom and Marie also offered insight into the attitudes of the town towards people from Mexico who cross the southern border asking for asylum. “We call them wetbacks,” Tom explained. “We track  them through the ranch with the cameras we have set up to track the animals. The other day we ‘ambushed’ a group of 18.”  By ambush, he didn’t mean they shot them. They held them at gunpoint until Border Patrol got there. Just like they did with the 5 people who came into their small store the week before. “That was the worst decision they made all day, “Maria explained. “We “held them” until the Border Patrol got here.”

Tom and Marie say that the situation with people crossing the Southern border has gotten immeasurably worse since the last election. “Before it was just 2 or 3 at a time,” Tom said. “Now we’ve never seen so many.”

We talked for awhile, paid for our food, and headed out the door. “Run over some wetbacks,” Tom said. “What?” Chris asked?  “Oh, I was just kidding,”Tom said.

20 miles down the road, in the heart of Sanderson, is another small general store. This is the second time Apollonia (she goes by Apple) has run this store. She sold it when her husband got a job in North Dakota. She opened it again when her husband’s job brought them back to town. Her husband had a 30 year career with the Border Patrol. After he retired, he became the Deputy Sheriff for the County, a job he continues to this day.



Apple has 7 children. Her youngest is in High School in Sanderson. Her other 6 have all left town  “That’s what happens with all the children here”, Apple explained. 



Apple tries to stock up on groceries people in town need. But she has to drive almost 100 miles to buy the groceries. When she adds a markup to cover her costs and stay in business, people in town have a hard time affording it. It’s not that it is ultimately cheaper for them to spend the gas money to drive the 100 miles themselves, but somehow the town of 500 hasn’t come up with a way to consolidate all the shopping that is done to support a full fledged grocery store.

But chance, Apple’s husband stopped by. He was glad to talk about his history in town, his work as a Deputy Sheriff and changes he has seen.  He did not want his picture taken. I am not using his name. At a certain point in our conversation, he asked if we could go outside the store to talk.

“When I started with the Border Patrol, I was assigned to El Paso. The number of people crossing the border then was about the same as the number of people who cross now,” he said. I was curious. Even skeptical. I explained that when we in Michigan heard the news about the crossings at the Southern border, it sounded like an invasion.

That’s not how saw it. It’s not like nobody's crossing. He is involved in patrolling a stretch of Highway 90 that is 90 long and 60 miles deep. He is involved in apprehending people who cross.  He is involved in rescuing people who get in trouble. Sometimes they die. Die of thirst in the summer heat. Die of the cold in the winter time. “Last year we had 18 dead in this jurisdiction. This year we have 2 already, and it’s not even hot yet.  Plus, there are many more who die that we never know about. With this vast area and rugged terrain, many simply disappear.”

But the biggest changes he has seen are in the number of Border Patrol agents that have been created, and the huge bureaucracy that supports that. “It’s kind of like anything the Federal government does, “ he said. “Throw money at it. Too many Chiefs, not enough Indians.” (Using his terms). “They don’t ask those of us on the ground what would be helpful.”

He had a simple explanation as well for much of the increase in the number of reported apprehensions. Before, US policy was to process asylum seekers in the United States. If they were denied asylum, they would be returned to their country of origin. So a person from Guatemala, for instance, who was denied asylum, was deported to Guatemala. They might decide to make the long trek north, he said, but maybe not. Even if they did, it would take a long time.

Now, with the “Remain in Mexico” policy the previous administration initiated, a person from Guatemala who is apprehended on US soil is taken back across the border to Mexico to wait for a hearing. Which means they wait a single day before trying again. And if they are apprehended again, they try again the next day. A large number of the apprehensions we read about are the repeat detentions of the same people.

“How about the efforts of people like ranchers and the storekeepers up the road who detain people seeking asylum?” I asked. He did not look amused. “It is illegal to hold someone at gunpoint who has not harmed you or come onto your property with ill intent,” he said. “ You have now become the person who has committed the illegal act.”

So what do I make of this?  Well, I’m still processing it. But a few things stick out. First, the numbers don’t match. The man with 30 years in the Border Patrol and the man who is tracking asylum seekers through the ranch are simply not reporting the same numbers. Second, the reason for what increased numbers there are are very different. One sees a policy change by the previous administration as contributing greatly to the increase in reported apprehensions. The other sees the current administration as solely responsible for the increase. Finally, one sees the similarity between the great European migrations of 300 years ago and the current efforts to seek asylum, while the other sees people to be run over.

“I like to remind people that the thousands of miles of ocean between Europe and this land didn’t stop people from coming here 300 years ago. What makes them think people who are only separated by a river won’t come here?  They’re all seeking the same three things. Freedom from an abusive government. Safety from violence. And a chance to earn enough to support their family.”

Both men agree that there are some
“Bad people” who are crossing the border, and facilitating the trip for others. But one sees the entire issue through the lens of the worst of those people. The other sees the people coming now through the lens of most of our ancestors, who came much earlier.

“Not everyone who comes into this store would agree with me,” the Deputy says. “And that’s okay. This is America.”

True enough. But somehow, we as a country have to find enough common ground on this issue to shape more humane and productive policies regarding people who are seeking a better life today, just as our as ancestors did “ yesterday”.










Tuesday, March 28, 2023

Too Much Pain...

David. The last few days have been hard to take. There is so much pain here, from different causes, some of it historical, some of it very current.

Chris and I went to Uvalde. The town has a memorial to the children and teachers killed here last year. After all this time - what is there to say that hasn’t been said already about this tragedy?  I could make some comments about how this part of Texas is awash with a belligerent gun culture, which is true enough, but then we heard yesterday of the latest school massacre in Tennessee. Not Texas. Something bigger is involved.





As we were driving to Uvalde we heard of the migrants suffocating in a box car just outside of Uvalde. We passed trains with boxcars. It was chilling.

This morning as we rode west, we heard the news of the fire in a migrant processing
Center just over the border. As we went on route 90 we were funneled through a Border Patrol checkpoint. We stopped. A dog sniffed our car. “Are you US citizens?” The guard asked in heavily accented English. Officer Marta. “Yes,” I answered. “Then you can go.”

Further up the road, two ranchers in pick up trucks took up a position on a small hilltop from where they could surveille in all directions. A mile behind them, a Border Patrol officer in the van with green stripes waited for any word. We could see across the fields into Mexico.

                                                 

These towns we’re passing through are poor. The entire region is stressed. The owner of the only store left in COMSTOCK explained that a generation or two ago, the ranches and towns along here were booming. But now the old ranchers have died. Their grandchildren have moved away. They can’t make a living ranching. The weather has changed. There used to be springs all over the ranches.  Now they’ve dried up. “We’re supposed to get 25 inches of rain a year,” she said. “It’s been years since we’ve had a measurable rainfall.”

The ranch workers have also left. The houses they lived in are simply sitting empty. Jesse, pictured below, said there are 25 houses in Langtry. There are 9 families left. One of the families is flying the Confederate flag and the “Come get it” flag out front their crumbling house. Feeling the pain of the “Lost Cause” of the Confederacy 150 years in, and the fear of gun confiscation.

                                     

                                     

While another set of families grieve their lost children in Tennessee. And another set of families in Central America grieve their lost family members. And ranchers and ranch hands grieve a way of life that is passed because of changing economics and changing weather.

Monday, March 27, 2023

Entering the Desert

                       Finally out of that gorgeous Texas hill country and entering the desert. 

                                   
                                   
I rode over this bridge which did not have a bike lane.  A few times I got off the bike and let semis pass by as I pushed up against the rail.  I thought it was nice of me and they seemed to appreciate it.

                                               

We are camping at Seminole Canyon State Park that has fantastic views from our campsite in all directions.  The Texas state parks have been outstanding.


                                   

                                     

                                     
                                              
It’s hard to reconcile the beauty of this place with its brutal and violent history.  It’s depressing and grim when one considers how many different groups ran out the native inhabitants of this land.  Ancient rock paintings are found on the walls of many of the areas rock shelters.   

                                            


It’s hard to describe the feeling of riding on these roads that seemingly go on forever.  Sometimes I just stop and listen to the wind and the sound of the birds and I am filled with gratitude.  And I sing.  Oh, do I sing.

   

   

  


Tomorrow we’ll be going through this area.  I don’t know if I can bike 88 miles unless I have a good tailwind.  We might be spending the night in the car by the road.  Don’t worry.  I’ve got my snacks all packed.  Priorities.



                                    He’s such a welcome sight when he rides out to meet me!



It’s hard work being the support person. I’m not being sarcastic.  When you are a journalist, a cook, a counselor, a people person and you are naturally inquisitive and pastoral you attract people wherever you go.  I’ve been known to mutter “there are people up there and I don’t want to talk to them.”  That does not stop him for one second! 

We are close to the US/Mexico border and the bike route is following the Rio Grande so today I came upon a border inspection station with a big sign that said all vehicles had to stop for inspection.  Well, I debated.  I’m not in a vehicle.  I decided I should probably stop.  They take borders seriously around here.  All traffic was diverted and I fully intended to stop and then at the very last second I found myself veering left and cycled between two big orange barrels.  I got on the other side and thought I was in the clear but then heard a loud whistle and a pickup truck with a U.S. customs official came roaring up to a stop.  I was prepared.  “I wasn’t sure if I should stop.  This isn’t a vehicle”.  I was told that yes, everyone has to stop.  I offered to go back so the dog could sniff my bike but the nice officer said no I could go on.  I’m sure I’ll have more chances to make this tough decision in the future.  There are so many check points.  I thought I had a stronger argument though.  A bike is not a vehicle.  

                                                

On another note, thanks to the library staff for posting our ramblings.  It’s difficult writing from our phones but it’s the only way to blog.  I don’t have the most nimble of fingers and often feel frustrated by trying to communicate in this way.  The pics are probably better than the words anyway.

                                             


Saturday, March 25, 2023

A Simple Haircut

 


David: One’s hair grows while you’re biking. In fact, it may even grow faster, since it’s kept moist under that helmet and receives lots of sun! Or not. But a month and a half into our ride, I really needed a haircut. See photo for visual proof.

We’ve just spent our second day at Camp Woods, Texas. Interesting in many ways, in this case, particularly because of the Cuts For Him Barbershop in town. A rarity in these small Texas towns. 



One might make an assumption that Josh, the barber, grew up here and never left town  Quite the opposite. Josh grew up in Eagle Pass, along the border. A “big town” with all that goes along with that. But he married a woman who grew up in Camp Woods, who was ready to “leave town.”

Marriage, a move to Colorado, children and a well paying  job followed. In other words - success, as many people, maybe most people, would define it.

But when Josh’s wife said she was homesick for Texas, Josh said he’d move back. Back to her hometown, with a population of a little over 500 people. Josh’s buddies who owned barbershops heard of his plan to open a barbershop for men. “You’re crazy,” they told him. “Take that 500 and divide it in half and you get 250 men. Then take the percentage of them that care about their hair. Or even have hair to cut. You’ll starve. “

But Josh came back. 8 years ago. And opened his Barbershop 8 months ago. He’s relieved that he’s paying the rent. But it will take an uptick in business to recoup his initial investment. 



But Josh is happy. He has a better home life. More time with his family. And he’s the youth Director at the Local Church.  He explains that there are young people in town - and young people at his church - who are poor. Who do not have the money for a haircut. “But how would it look if I’m the Youth Director and a barber and there are young people who have shaggy hair?”he asks. So they come and get their hair cut , and sweep the floor, or do some other chore. And, Josh explained, it often seems that after giving a free haircut, the next customer leaves a tip that covers both.

It can be hard living in a small town when you’re not in total agreement with everything that goes on. Josh grew up with a lot of violence around him. He is not a big fan of guns. He hunts for food for his family - using a bow and an arrow. He hopes his boys grow up and don’t pick up guns. But Texas as a whole is pretty pro-gun. Residents in Camp Woods who patronize Josh’s Barbershop are very defensive about any attempts to restrict gun ownership.  Josh believes in “living in peace” with everyone he meets.

We talked about how we deal with differences of opinion in a small town in order to build and strengthen community. It’s not easy. But there’s no other way to build the kind of communities, and the kind of world, we want.


Texas Cat

Chris:  Marcellus Library Director Patty has been wondering what’s up with all the cow and sheep photos and has been asking for pictures of cats.  So here you go, Patty.  I jumped off my bike , grabbed my phone and took this just for you.  A real live Texas house cat.


I have been wanting to see these feral pigs that are quite a problem in this state and finally saw one today.  It was a dead baby feral pig by the side of the road.  You can thank my mother (who tried to teach me not to be so crude) for the fact that I did not jump off my bike for a picture of that one.  I’ll just add it to my VERY long list of roadkill sightings on this trip.

 

Admin note: If you love cats as much as Chris does, you won't want to miss the 2023 Cat Calendar, which is a free digital download from the Army Corps of Engineers showcasing impressive engineering and impressively bad Photoshop skills! https://usace.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p16021coll11/id/5869/rec/1


Friday, March 24, 2023

Camp Wood, Texas


 Chris:
We have had the best time biking to and around Camp Wood.  I was so happy to hear that the area was going to experience thunderstorms last night so we rented a darling little cabin for two nights.  Running water!  A shower!  A refrigerator!   A picnic table to use when the storm passed.


I met the greatest people at the Camp Wood Public Library.  This is volunteer Marianne Meixell who told me they remodeled their library two years ago and guess what!  They chose the same color scheme that we did in our library in Marcellus!  So of course I loved their fine taste in colors! 



Library volunteers John Baker and Marianne Meixell who gave us such a warm welcome and told me all about their library.  I continue to be amazed at the creativity and ingenuity of the people in these tiny little towns who are committed to the mission of libraries.


And just look at these fearless women from San Antonio who are in town for a weekend with their group RVing Women.  They belong to the Texas Ramblin’Roses chapter of this national organization.  A big group of women is staying at our campsite and they invited me to join them but alas, I have a husband along so was disinvited!  Pat Humble (left) and Colleen Phipps each drove big RVs for this gathering of women.  Colleen said “it doesn’t take brawn to drive an RV, it takes brains.  And we have brains!”

Camp Wood is another small Texas town with fascinating people to talk with.